Ask Witchy: Your Dog Training Questions Answered

[witchofthedogs]

This is a weekly (or however often as needed) question and answer column to help you with your dog behavior and dog training questions.

For those of you who don't know me, I am a full member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, a supporting member of the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants, and a member of the International Alliance for Animal Therapy and Healing. I have been a professional dog trainer for the past three years and am the owner of The Celtic Dog (www.celticdogtraining.com). My company concentrates on helping families with "problem" dogs through in-home and real-life training sessions. We also concentrate on holistic and natural healing (in conjunction with Western medicine) and provide services such as reiki therapy, adoption and new puppy/dog ownership counseling, and classes/sessions dealing with children and dogs. We have recently added to our staff a veterinary technician who possesses not only a degree in animal science from the University of Delaware, but over 15 years veterinary experience in a local clinic.

This weekly "column" provides you the opportunity to submit questions regarding your dog's behavior and/or health and receive an answer here on Talk Delaware.

When submitting your questions, please try and be as detailed as possible and include the following information:

• age and sex of your pet
• age at time of neuter or spay (if applicable)
• details of problematic behavior
• last veterinary visit
• any major health issues

Also, please let me know if you want your questions posted anonymously and note that I may edit the information you provide for length. (For questions dealing with issues relating to aggressive behavior, I may contact you privately for a consultation.)

As always, please consult your veterinarian if your pet is having any issues that require immediate medical attention or if your pet is exhibiting behavior you find threatening to you or another pet.

Please submit your questions to askwitchy@gmail.com. I look forward to hearing from you!

[Decent]

• Approximately 18 months - Age
• Not done yet - Neuter (Still 'discussing' it with GT, me-yes, him-no)
• Pushing - Started recently
• 6 months ago - Vet
• None - Health problems

OK, here's the thing. Lately, Jake has started pushing. He puts his hands on us, like when we're on the couch or the bed, raises up, just enough, and pushes, like he's trying to push us off. It's always at the moment of distraction, when we aren't expecting it. Then I swear, he laughs. He just gets the wide grin pant face. When GT and I are hugging or kissing, he goes crazy, he jumps up and pushes one of us, or he gets in the middle.

Any idea what this is??

[Summerrain]

• Approximately 18 months - Age
• Not done yet - Neuter (Still 'discussing' it with GT, me-yes, him-no)
• Pushing - Started recently
• 6 months ago - Vet
• None - Health problems

OK, here's the thing. Lately, Jake has started pushing. He puts his hands on us, like when we're on the couch or the bed, raises up, just enough, and pushes, like he's trying to push us off. It's always at the moment of distraction, when we aren't expecting it. Then I swear, he laughs. He just gets the wide grin pant face. When GT and I are hugging or kissing, he goes crazy, he jumps up and pushes one of us, or he gets in the middle.

Any idea what this is??

Wow. That sounds like my Baby.

[witchofthedogs]

Just a favor guys, if you don't mind... If you want your issues answered, please submit your questions about behavior to the askwitchy@gmail.com address. I need to go through these and write up some serious answers and that way I can track what has been answered and what hasn't... Otherwise, there's going to be no way for me to devote the time necessary to each question and keep track of what has been handled.

In addition, your question might be answered through my response to someone else's question. Decent, someone has already submitted something that may actually address your issue and will be included in the first "column" which will be posted on Sunday or Monday.

Thanks!!

[Decent]

Aww crap. SORRY!!!. I didnt see the email at the bottom!!!

[witchofthedogs]

No, problem, Decent. It just makes it easier if I can see a general theme going through certain questions and address them all at the same time. Plus, I'm going to be keeping a log of what has been talked about and what hasn't, so using the e-mail helps me organize that stuff on my end.

[Decent]

This is a weekly (or however often as needed) question and answer column to help you with your dog behavior and dog training questions.

For those of you who don't know me, I am a full member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, a supporting member of the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants, and a member of the International Alliance for Animal Therapy and Healing. I have been a professional dog trainer for the past three years and am the owner of The Celtic Dog (www.celticdogtraining.com). My company concentrates on helping families with "problem" dogs through in-home and real-life training sessions. We also concentrate on holistic and natural healing (in conjunction with Western medicine) and provide services such as reiki therapy, adoption and new puppy/dog ownership counseling, and classes/sessions dealing with children and dogs. We have recently added to our staff a veterinary technician who possesses not only a degree in animal science from the University of Delaware, but over 15 years veterinary experience in a local clinic.

This weekly "column" provides you the opportunity to submit questions regarding your dog's behavior and/or health and receive an answer here on Talk Delaware.

When submitting your questions, please try and be as detailed as possible and include the following information:

• age and sex of your pet
• age at time of neuter or spay (if applicable)
• details of problematic behavior
• last veterinary visit
• any major health issues

Also, please let me know if you want your questions posted anonymously and note that I may edit the information you provide for length. (For questions dealing with issues relating to aggressive behavior, I may contact you privately for a consultation.)

As always, please consult your veterinarian if your pet is having any issues that require immediate medical attention or if your pet is exhibiting behavior you find threatening to you or another pet.

Please submit your questions to askwitchy@gmail.com. I look forward to hearing from you!

What about breed?

[witchofthedogs]

What about breed?

Good point. You can put the breed in there. I'm less concerned about it than some other factors, but there are times when it can be considered. Remember, the answers I'm giving are going to be in the form of a column-type answer and they will be as thorough as possible for the information provided. Normally, in an initial consultation, I would ask my clients a series of questions that take up approximately six-pages and require about an hour to cover (and include history, food type, etc.). Obviously, due to space and time constraints, that simply can't be done here.

[witchofthedogs]

Dear Witchy,

My 2 year old poodle/shih tzu mix Edgar has severe separation anxiety. Although we crate him when we leave the house, we’ve been unable to do so at night, because he barks incessantly. Even though he is a small dog, he can and will bark very loudly and for hours at a time. After several nights of barely sleeping, we gave up and now he sleeps on our bed.

He cannot be away from us unless it’s on his terms. If we are eating dinner on the patio and he is leashed in the yard, he barks and cries until we unhook him and let him sit under the table, closer to us.

We were told that we cannot give into his barking, because it signals to him that the barking has succeeded in having his demands met. We tried living that way for weeks after we adopted him, but nothing worked.

Please help! We would like to start a family, but are hesitant to take an attention away from Edgar for fear that his behavior will get worse. What is the fine line between being attentive to him and letting him feel secure without being on our laps? His previous owner traveled for much of the year she had Edgar, and I think that may be part of the problem.

Thanks,
Desperate for Sleep in Smyrna



Poor you! Poor Edgar! Yes, what you describe does sound like you and Edgar are facing a classic case of separation anxiety and it's a tough road to walk for everyone involved.

First, you're actually doing well not to crate him at night. A dog who is crated all day (and I assume you crate him while you are at work) should never be crated at night as well – that kind of restriction can do much to drive a normal, healthy dog into becoming a neurotic dog with problem behaviors. Dogs need a significant amount of exercise and social interaction and crating both night and day denies them both.

Second, it sounds like you started down the right path with ignoring some of Edgar's more obnoxious attention-seeking behaviors, but were unable to continue with the process. Sadly, this happens often with people who believe a “retraining” program isn't working – they stop before its had a chance to actually take hold.

Working with a dog that has separation anxiety requires a lot of patience, a willingness to change your own behavior in order to change the dog's behavior, and an understanding that the dog is not acting the way he's acting to be obnoxious, but because the world itself is so scary he needs the reassurance of your presence in order to function. But don't be discouraged, Sleepless, there are things you can do!

From your letter, it appears that Edgar does not have any serious medical conditions and is not currently on any medication. I raise the issue because, often, chronic illness, seasonal allergies, and some long-term medications can change a dog's behavior and we need to eliminate those from being a cause of Edgar's clingyness. Before beginning any training program, I would suggest a vet visit to make sure there are no underlying medical causes for Edgar's issues, just to be on the safe side.

My next suggestion would be to institute a “Nothing in Life is Free” policy – this is generally my first suggestion to all of my clients, but certainly the one I emphasize most for clients with insecure, “Velcro” dogs. A great description of the program can be found here (http://www.ddfl.org/behavior/nilif.pdf) but, in essence, it a program in which your dog “earns” everything he gets – pets, love, food, trips outside, trips back inside, etc. The program works for insecure dogs, who are unsure of everything, to overly pushy dogs, who need to learn they aren't King of the Household. Instituting the NILF program will help Edgar begin to understand that “Mom” is in control of everything and he doesn't necessarily have to worry so much about every little thing that goes on. Instituting the NILF program does NOT mean you should ignore your dog or that you can never love on your dog or snuggle with them or treat them again. It simply means you do it on your terms, not your dog's terms.

Once you've instituted a NILF program, I would begin some “retraining” steps, to make your absence from Edgar's presence a little less traumatic for him. This program can be as simple as doing some of the following things:

* Provide Edgar with a “special” treat he gets only when you leave the house. A hollowed out bone or Kong, stuffed with banana, cream cheese, peanut butter, apple, baby carrots (you name it!) given to Edgar five minutes before you leave is something that actually makes your leaving pleasant, as opposed to traumatic.

* Make your entrances and exits very low key and quiet. For ten minutes prior to leaving for work (and prior to crating him), interact as little as possible with Edgar, save for giving him his special treat. When you come in at night, don't make Edgar your first stop as soon as you come in the door – put down the mail, take off your shoes, check the answering machine, whatever it is that you would do if Edgar wasn't there – and after a few moments, then go see him. When you greet him, don't make a big deal of it – rather, make your voice calm and low-key. This way, you aren't making huge noise over your return and you aren't marking your return as a grand event in Edgar's mind.

* Dogs pick up on patterns and behavior far quicker than humans and Edgar probably knows your morning and evening routines like clockwork. Simply picking up your shoes off the floor of the closet may be a cue to him that you're going to leave and it helps to drive his anticipation level through the roof before you've even finished tying them. One way to begin to desensitize him to this is to, over the course of time when you are home during the day or evening, pick up your purse, carry it for a while, and then put it down. Same thing with your car keys. Put on your shoes, wear them for a while, then take them off. All of these behaviors are cues to Edgar that you are leaving, but if you perform them and don't leave, it begins to take away the power of those cues to raise his adrenaline level.

* Consider adding Aspen flower essences (produced by Bach Flower Essences) or Rescue Remedy to Edgar's water in his crate (and any other water bowl he may have in the house). They are both all-natural stress-relievers and may aid in taking the edge off of his behavior in your absence. A diffuser of real lavender oil (not the lavender scented candles or oils you buy in the grocery store) situated near his crate may help as well.

* Reward Edgar for the times he is quiet and keeping himself occupied. For example, if you are eating outside in the scenario you describe, put him on his tie out, give him a treat, and if he's quiet, occasionally toss him another treat (diced hot dog or cheese is great for this). You are, in essence, rewarding him for NOT being velcroed to your side and for doing exactly what you want him to do – be happy on his own. This works inside the house, or outside the house, and is simply an easy way of using positive reinforcement to mark in Edgar's mind that simply sitting and being a good boy earns him a reward.

* As you were instructed when you first adopted him, giving him attention when he cries for it (any attention is good attention in Edgar's mind - so even saying, "No, no, bad dog!" gets him what he wants) proves to him that whatever he's doing is working. And dogs do whatever works. If you cease to give him attention for the negative behavior (so long as that behavior isn't dangerous to him or to you), will eventually cause it to disappear. But you have to be consistent and patient and realize that means ignoring the bad behavior, period, and rewarding the good behavior - which as I described above would be rewarding the behavior you want to see from him.


This is simply a quick rundown of some easy ways of changing your behavior to help change Edgar's behavior and is not a complete program. However, instituting many of these steps (and being consistent in following them), may certainly help you get a handle on Edgar's outbursts. If you think that he's so overwhelmed by your absence and that the separation anxiety is such that he's liable to be destructive to himself or your property if you were to begin this program, consider talking to your vet about beginning him on a course of Clomicalm or Reconcile. These drugs are not something you necessarily need to keep him on indefinitely and can help to give you a leg up on the retraining program. And, should you wish to develop a complete program with the help of a trainer, you can search for one at the Association of Pet Dog Trainers' website: Dog Trainer Search


For more reading on Separation Anxiety, I recommend the chapter on “Destructive Behavior” in Nicholas Dodman's Dogs Behaving Badly: An A-to-Z Guide to Understanding & Curing Behavioral Problems in Dogs.

[witchofthedogs]

Dear Witchy,

My most serious problem with her is she is VERY defiant. When I got her, she had basically been locked in a basement with 7 other dogs, let out once a day, food thrown down the steps and everyone fend for themselves, type of situation. Very little human interaction.

Where, she knows commands, she will defy me on them (even though she knows there is a reward at the end).

Example: She knows she is supposed to stay inside the fenced area unless we let her out (which is often), but will somehow (haven’t figured out how yet) slip out of the fenced area, just to walk around to the gate and give you a smug look, like “I got out. I win.” I don’t know for real that is what she is saying, but that is what it seems like whenever she defies us.

Summerrain

Good for you, Summer, for rescuing this girl from an otherwise terrible living situation! It sounds like she's probably come a long way from where she was and that definitely means you've done some good work!

However, there's one thing that struck me in your letter that I'd like to address, because I think once it's cleared up, your approach to working with her might be a little easier...There is a common misconception that dogs understand “right vs. wrong.” In truth, they understand “safe vs. dangerous” and they understand, through evolution, that they do what works. Whether it's the demanding attention that Sleepless in Smyrna found in Edgar or your girl shows when climbing/dodging/going under the fence, dogs do what works. Moral judgment has nothing to do with it.

So, how does this fit into your situation? My guess is that she's not being defiant, she's doing what works. Nature tells her to chase the bunny/squirrel/fox whatever and because you let her outside in an unfenced area (I'm assuming that's what you mean when you say you let her “out”) she has no way of knowing what is allowed and what is not. In other words, she less defiant than confused.

Let me put it to you this way: in your letter you state that she “knows she's supposed to stay inside the fenced in area”? How so? Did you train her to do so? Imagine I put you in a room and closed the door. Would you assume you had to stay in there, or would you think you would be able to leave if you were simply able to open it? What if I occasionally left the door open and let you wander around outside of the room? How would you know if you were supposed to stay in the room or if you were allowed to leave? See how it could begin to be confusing? Now imagine how confused she could be.

Granted, my example is a simplification, but it does apply. Your dog only knows what you teach her and if you haven't taught her to stay inside the fence, her inclination to chase and run and leave will overwhelm any training she's received. And I'm not pointing out all of this to say, “Bad, Summer. Bad dog owner!” but to point out that our preconceived notions of what dogs should know or do sometimes work against us. Because we know what we mean and what we want, a lot of times we assume our dogs know what we mean and what we want. It's a common trait - we are, after all, human and capable of a lot more mental gymnastics to come to a realization of any kind than dogs are.

But there are things you can do to make it easier for your dog and easier for you and to eliminate any confusion about what you expect from her.

Just as I recommended to Sleepless, my first suggestion to you would be to institute a “Nothing in Life is Free” program (http://www.ddfl.org/behavior/nilif.pdf). Dogs live in the wild under certain pack guidelines and there are rules and regulations (granted they are dog rules and regulations) and dogs living with us in our homes need the same kind of structure. NILF provides a dog structure and also lets the dog know that “all good things come from Mom.” You have thumbs, you control when she eats, what she eats, when she goes outside – all of it. You can begin to use that to your advantage.

In addition to a NILF program, I would also go back and do some remedial basic puppy/dog training. It never hurts and it sounds like she could use a brush-up course. In conjunction with the NILF program, this begins to show her that Mom is in charge, that she needs to follow commands, and that her place within the house is secure. Given her previous living conditions, this may be something that really needs to be shown to her.

Finally, with respect to her getting out and slipping the fence, I have two suggestions – the first is that she not be let out in an unfenced area until a good few months of NILF and basic training have occurred. Second, she should only go into the fenced in area on a 16 foot leash for the next few weeks. This keeps her (a) safely restrained inside the fence and (b) in the mindset that Mom and the family are firmly in control of where she is allowed to go. Often, when we bring new dogs into our homes (particularly dogs from bad circumstances) we want so badly to make it up to them and make their lives good, that we give them freedoms and privileges they haven't earned. As she behaves and begins to understand there are some guidelines under which she needs to behave, she can earn the right to be out in the fenced yard untethered.

Yes, this will require you to change your routine and your behavior, but it will also begin to forge a bond of respect – it will show her that you respect the fact that she is, in fact, a dog, and she will begin to respect you as the family leader you are.

If you have any questions about what I've mentioned here, or you need clarification, send me an e-mail and we can set up a phone consultation.

[witchofthedogs]

One comment with respect to the training methods I use - I practice only positive reinforcement techniques. Generally, they do not require you to even touch your dog to train them (aside from lots of loves and petting). I do not advocate the use of physical punishment, leash correction, electronic or choke collars, or (for the most part) adversive techniques.

If you are looking for advice on any of the above, I will not be able to assist you.

[witchofthedogs]

Dear Witchy,

Our dog Jake is an unneutered, 18-month old, mixed breed (Akita/Pit) who has lately started pushing. He puts his hands on us, like when we're on the couch or the bed, raises up, just enough, and pushes, like he's trying to push us off. It's always at the moment of distraction, when we aren't expecting it. Then I swear, he laughs. He just gets the wide grin pant face. When GT and I are hugging or kissing, he goes crazy, he jumps up and pushes one of us, or he gets in the middle.

Decent


Decent was kind enough to e-mail her question to me and I responded that this is a situation in which I would prefer to talk to her on the phone about the issues she's having with Jake, rather than put them in a column. There are three issues going on in this particular situation that make me leery to put my suggestions in a simple 500 word response:

1. the size of the dog
2. the sex of the dog
3. the behavior

Without seeing the dog or watching the interaction, I won't give a simple “one-size-fits” all response in a column. But I am going to explain to all of you why I'm not going to give Decent an answer here, in case one of you has a dog acting in a similar fashion.

First, this is, from her description, a relatively large dog. She didn't indicate an actual size, but my guess, given the breed mixture, is that he's between 60-85 pounds (possibly more) which means his behavior, as obnoxious as it is, can be far more impressive than that of a Chihuahua (which is not to say that this behavior out of a Chihuahua isn't a cause for concern, too). Given that he is as large as he is, any behavior he exhibits that involves pushing or shoving a human, leaning up against them to move them out of the way, jumping or mouthing, can be dangerous.

Second, this is an intact male dog. Now, unless you are affiliated with a local breed group, have AKC papers, and intend on breeding this dog within pure-breed standards, there is no need to keep any dog, male or female intact. In this instance, given the other information I received, I'd be willing to guess that neutering this dog will definitely go a long way toward helping with his behavior issues (in conjunction with a behavior modification program). The “old wives” tale about neutering changing behavior of dogs comes from the fact that many male dogs are neutered as they reach the peak of their sexual maturity and have exited puppyhood – their energy levels by virtue of their maturity level tend to change and dip. Dogs mature just like humans mature – their personalities evolve and change just as ours do. Neutering does nothing but remove excess testosterone from your dog's system (and also prevents some serious health issues that may arise in the dog's older years). In a dog that is already showing some behavior issues, this is often an important key to getting things in control.

Third, the behavior this dog is exhibiting (pushing, nosing, jumping in between the owners, and a few other things that Decent described in another part of her e-mail to me) is concerning. Your dog should never, ever touch you unless it is invited. Pushing, nosing, jumping and other behaviors that involve your dog physically manipulating you are serious and need to be addressed by behavior modification program. These are the kinds of behaviors that raise a red flag in the minds of most trainers because it is a fine line between pushing, nosing and jumping to shoving, cornering and biting. I do not want to simply guess as to Jake's motivation in his behavior (though I have two possible theories for it) and it would require a great deal more analysis of the situation (and many more questions of Decent and her husband) to accurately pinpoint why Jake is doing what he's doing. But this is a situation in which behavior that seems relatively innocuous and, in many circumstance, amusing to us can lead to more manipulative and aggressive behavior. Because of this, I don't want to give a simple answer here and have anyone assume that will fix the problem. This is a situation in which a good, behavior modification program developed by a veterinarian or a trainer is highly recommended.

None of this is to imply that Jake is not a good dog or that Decent is a horrible dog owner. I simply mean to express a big note of caution to anyone who has a dog who is exhibiting this kind of pushiness and to suggest you work on modifying that behavior sooner, rather than later. There are techniques you can use to get a handle on this kind of behavior and turn an “obnoxious” dog into a great family pet, so if you find your dog “pushing” you around, please contact your veterinarian or a trainer.

If you have any questions on how to select a trainer in your area, please feel free to contact me. The Association of Pet Dog Trainers has a great directory available to the public listing the trainers available around the country.

[witchofthedogs]

By the way, should you have any questions about issues raised in the column postings themselves, please feel free to post them here. It's the actual "help me with my dog" questions I'd like to have sent to the askwitchy@gmail.com e-mail address, so I can keep track of the issues we've discussed.

Please, feel free to discuss!

[Summerrain]

Given that he is as large as he is, any behavior he exhibits that involves pushing or shoving a human, leaning up against them to move them out of the way, jumping or mouthing, can be dangerous.

This concerns me, because my female behaves the same way and has actually "charged" me a couple of times. While, I am not afraid of her, I don't like to hit to punish. But, in a situation like this, I am not sure what else I am to do. This required immediate action, and reflexes are what kept me from being injured.

She has calmed down a bit though, I know she displays this behavior still.

[witchofthedogs]

This concerns me, because my female behaves the same way and has actually "charged" me a couple of times. While, I am not afraid of her, I don't like to hit to punish. But, in a situation like this, I am not sure what else I am to do. This required immediate action, and reflexes are what kept me from being injured.

She has calmed down a bit though, I know she displays this behavior still.

Again, this is something a trainer would want to talk about with you on a one-on-one basis. No behavior exists in a vacuum and this is probably part of a larger issue with the dog that ties in with other behaviors that are being expressed. Often, owners don't realize that the behaviors are all inter-related and are expressing a deeper issue at the root of things.

Of course, if you are in imminent danger (or another human or animal is in imminent danger), removing everyone safely from the situation is the priority. However, punishment itself will do nothing to stop the behavior and may escalate the problem.

Summer, if you want to give me a call to talk, just drop me an e-mail and I'll send you my numbers. If this is the same dog you referred to in your earlier e-mail we discussed upthread, you're already on your way toward dealing with some of the problem, but if you want to go into more detail, we can talk.

[witchofthedogs]

With many thanks to DEMOA (who reminded me that these things really should be posted), below is a list of the Top 10 Tips to Keep Your Pet Safe This Summer from the Humane Society of the United States:


Memorial Day weekend signals the unofficial start of summer and that means it's time to start thinking about how the warm weather will impact pets. Whether you and your pets are taking a walk, a drive or just hanging out in the backyard, there are extra precautions that you can take to keep everyone happy and safe:

1. Never leave your pet unattended in the car on a warm or sunny day. Cars quickly heat up to a dangerous temperature, even with the window slightly open.

2. Be sure to keep your pets up-to-date on their vaccinations and preventative medications. Fleas and ticks stay busy in warm weather and summer is also the prime time for heartworms. Check with your veterinarian about the best way to keep your pets healthy.

3. Keep your cats indoors to keep them safe. Cars, other pets and wild animals can all pose risks to your cats' safety. By providing playtime, cat trees, and other enrichment, your cat will be happy and content to stay indoors with you.

4. Beware of cocoa mulch and other gardening products. Cocoa mulch can be deadly if ingested and has an appetizing scent to some animals. Pesticides, fertilizers and other harsh chemicals can also be quickly fatal if ingested.

5. When taking your dog for a walk on a hot day, plan for shorter walks midday, when temperatures peak, and longer walks in the morning and evening when it's cooler. Hot sidewalks can burn the pads on your dog's paws, so walk on the grass when possible.

6. If you have pet rabbits, be sure to keep them indoors because they don't tolerate heat well. Keeping a rabbit indoors will also provide protection from predators who might try to attack a rabbit in an outdoor hutch.

7. Never leave your dog outdoors unattended on a chain or tether. Long-term chaining during the hot summer months can result in countless insect bites, dehydration, and heat stroke. Even short-term unattended tethering can pose risks such as theft or attacks by people or animals.

8. When driving with pets, be sure to keep them properly restrained and inside the vehicle. Special seatbelts and secured carriers can protect pets during accidents and prevent them from distracting the driver. The back of a pick-up truck is never a safe place for a pet to ride.

9. Be mindful of your pets around your wild neighbors. When going for walks or playing in a fenced yard, don't allow pets to harass birds, rabbits, squirrels and other wild animals.

10. he summer months are the peak season for dog bites because so many kids and dogs are playing outside. You can reduce the risk of your dog biting through training, socialization, and getting your dog spayed or neutered. Kids can learn to stay safe through good manners around pets and humane education.

(Top 10 Tips to Keep Your Pets Safe This Summer | The Humane Society of the United States)

If you have any questions or concerns regarding any of these safety tips, please feel free to PM or e-mail me to talk about it!

[Decent]

When are your next answers coming out, I've written a couple times to your gmail account. Should I post them here as well?

I'm also having a problem with getting Jakes nails doen. Groomers scare the crap out of him, I dont know how to do it myself and the Pedi-Paws thing was a joke. God theyre like TALONS now.

[witchofthedogs]

When are your next answers coming out, I've written a couple times to your gmail account. Should I post them here as well?

I'm also having a problem with getting Jakes nails doen. Groomers scare the crap out of him, I dont know how to do it myself and the Pedi-Paws thing was a joke. God theyre like TALONS now.

Sorry, Decent. Now that I've started school, things are a bit chaotic and, therefore, the columns will not be posted as regularly as I had originally intended. I'll check the e-mail this evening and get working on another column shortly.

As for the nails issue, the only answer I have for you is to take him to your veterinarian and have them do it. There is, sadly, no quick way to acclimate a dog to nail trimming or grooming if it wasn't done early on in his/her development. The fastest way to have the problem handled is to have your veterinarian do it.

In addition, if you have a sensitive or reactive dog, the last thing you want to do is take a Pedi-Paws or Dremmel near their feet. You're better off with a traditional set of clippers (the kind with the quick-guard are good). But if you've never trained your dog to have their nails done (and this is best done when they are in the development phase), your safest bet is a veterinarian. That's what I do with both of mine. It costs more, but it's done quickly, done right, and done with the least amount of emotional stress and fear to my pets.

[witchofthedogs]

Decent, your first question is an easy one, so I'll post it now... Your second question is a bit harder and I'll write up a response to that this evening.


Dear Witchy,

I'm wondering if it's ok for Jake to have Popsicles? I split a cherry one with him just now and he went nuts, lol, LOVED it. So is it ok to let him have some of a Popsicle now and then?

Decent

There is nothing in popcicles that should harm Jake as long as you're not: (i) giving him chocolate, (ii) giving him popcicles that contain sugar substitutes such as xylitol or saccharine, and (iii) as long as he doesn't have any medical conditions that are adversely affected by sugar.

But, just like with humans, such treats should be given in moderation. A better choice, if you want to give him something cool and refreshing in the summer, are homemade doggy-cicles. These can be made by simply freezing chicken, beef or vegetable stock in an ice cube tray. Pop out a couple and give your pup a cool summer treat that is not only refreshing, but good for him, too! (If your dog has any issues with respect to loose or sore teeth, put the cubes in a blender and make him a slushie - just as good, but easier on the choppers!)

And, as a public service announcement, remember to keep your pets cool in the heat. Dogs don't sweat like we do, so they require the ability to pant (which means no nylon muzzles!) and keep their feet cool. Make sure your pet has access to an ample water supply and shade, if you have to keep him outside. Also, if you're exercising your pet, give him plenty of breaks and cool water.

Never, ever leave your pet in a car during the summer months. It only takes minutes for a car to turn into an oven, so if you can't take your pet inside your destination, leave him or her at home where it's cool.

[Decent]

Decent, your first question is an easy one, so I'll post it now... Your second question is a bit harder and I'll write up a response to that this evening.


Dear Witchy,

I'm wondering if it's ok for Jake to have Popsicles? I split a cherry one with him just now and he went nuts, lol, LOVED it. So is it ok to let him have some of a Popsicle now and then?

Decent

There is nothing in popcicles that should harm Jake as long as you're not: (i) giving him chocolate, (ii) giving him popcicles that contain sugar substitutes such as xylitol or saccharine, and (iii) as long as he doesn't have any medical conditions that are adversely affected by sugar.

But, just like with humans, such treats should be given in moderation. A better choice, if you want to give him something cool and refreshing in the summer, are homemade doggy-cicles. These can be made by simply freezing chicken, beef or vegetable stock in an ice cube tray. Pop out a couple and give your pup a cool summer treat that is not only refreshing, but good for him, too! (If your dog has any issues with respect to loose or sore teeth, put the cubes in a blender and make him a slushie - just as good, but easier on the choppers!)

And, as a public service announcement, remember to keep your pets cool in the heat. Dogs don't sweat like we do, so they require the ability to pant (which means no nylon muzzles!) and keep their feet cool. Make sure your pet has access to an ample water supply and shade, if you have to keep him outside. Also, if you're exercising your pet, give him plenty of breaks and cool water.

Never, ever leave your pet in a car during the summer months. It only takes minutes for a car to turn into an oven, so if you can't take your pet inside your destination, leave him or her at home where it's cool.

Oh my god, he'd LOVE me to death if I made those doggy-sicle things, lol. And he'd BUG me to death too. I would NOT be able to go to the fridge for anything without him sitting there expectantly and hoping. Great idea, thanks, I'll stop on the way home and buy some beef stock.